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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.